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They Don't All Hate Us
I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.
No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!
Why this?
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!
The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.
Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists', Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!
If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.
Start: 7:20 AMTime: 45 minsSurf: 3 times
Conditions: Shoulder to overhead plus, smooth, mid-tide, closing out. Offshore wind.
That was the weirdest session I've had in ages.
Why the hell did I paddle out right where the biggest, nastiest waves were smashing down. Half way through my punishment I thought of giving up, but kept going because I'm as stubborn as hell and didn't want to put a "smugger" smile on Tony's face.
Glee! At last I was out the back wearing my smug smile. Ha, ha. Spent the rest of the session marvelling at the beautiful rain on the green water as the surf spray lifted up into space. Oh, and dodging all those fantastic rogue waves.
Watched some guys taking off on some truly scary, barrelling waves and listened to spectators hooting with joy. I felt their joy. Yes, I caught enough of my own joy to be happy. So I'm happy. Very. Is there a better way to start the day? What keeps you coming back? Surfing is awesome...right!
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