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So, why is surfing so addictive?
"When I dream of surfing now, I dream of Ollie's. I didn't just catch one or two perfect rides, I caught dozens and dozens. I'd paddle one-two-three and slide onto the soft, perfectly pitched slope, hopping to my feet to watch the pale blue wall rise up and extend into forever, my fingers raking the warm water at my side, my grin stretching my sunburnt cheeks. And I would fly, fly, fly, riding the wave until I began to wonder if in fact it had no end. When the ride faded, I aimed my body up and out, and as the lip crumbled into foam at my heels I would be prone, paddling with ease for the outside." 'Chasing Waves: A Surfer's Tale of Obsessive Wandering' by Amy Waeschle's
Some people say it takes only one or two sessions to get hooked. My addiction started on 19 November 2003 and because I firmly believe that a life worth living is worth recording (unless you're way, way, way too busy), that's what I've done here...in text, photos, and video. Welcome to my surf diary!The Sydney Surf Group
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun. Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Start: 7:30 AMTime: 1 hr 20 minsSurf: 12 timesConditions: Hip to shoulder high, smooth, glassy, low tide, dangerous close to shore, no wind.
Mark said: With the Sydney Surf Group up at Palm Beach this morning and I'm still buzzing from the surf! Nice and glassy with some heart-in-the-mouth rides. Yes, it was overcast with a little drizzle, but hey, we spent most of the time in the water. Had a look at all the beaches on the way back to Manly and we had the best spot of all. Everywhere else was blown out.
Gareth said: What an amazing session. Looking at the surf at Dee Why on the way over, I can't say I was expecting too much but on arrival we could tell that it was going to be a great session. There really was something for everyone- whitewater and little rollers for beginners, long rides for the long boarders and a great set of waves for the better guys. The great thing about this meetup group is that the guys really go out of their way to share their enthusiasm with you! Thanks all for a great day out!
Michael said: Absolutely loved it!!!!! Fantastic people to surf with and socialize and very well organized and run. Thanks everyone for not pointing out too much that I was the only bloody body boarder and the only one on the whole stretch of Summer Bay who walked backwards in and out of the water...lol
About the video: This probably sounds crazy, but I've just burnt through about 5 hours of my life editing and picking music for this thing. I'm using what should be a really easy video editing application, but its full of bugs! Anyway...I got the thing to run backwards and I love it! The music is awesome too...and you can get it here.
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