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So, why is surfing so addictive?
"When I dream of surfing now, I dream of Ollie's. I didn't just catch one or two perfect rides, I caught dozens and dozens. I'd paddle one-two-three and slide onto the soft, perfectly pitched slope, hopping to my feet to watch the pale blue wall rise up and extend into forever, my fingers raking the warm water at my side, my grin stretching my sunburnt cheeks. And I would fly, fly, fly, riding the wave until I began to wonder if in fact it had no end. When the ride faded, I aimed my body up and out, and as the lip crumbled into foam at my heels I would be prone, paddling with ease for the outside." 'Chasing Waves: A Surfer's Tale of Obsessive Wandering' by Amy Waeschle's
Some people say it takes only one or two sessions to get hooked. My addiction started on 19 November 2003 and because I firmly believe that a life worth living is worth recording (unless you're way, way, way too busy), that's what I've done here...in text, photos, and video. Welcome to my surf diary!The Sydney Surf Group
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun. Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Start: 8:30 AMTime: 50 minsSurf: 4 timesConditions: Hip to chest high, high tide, smooth, closing out. Offshore wind which swung to onshore after 20 mins
Made the drive down to The Shire (Cronulla) from Manly for another meetup and it was really, really good. This may not seem like a big deal, but Sydneyites don't tend to cross the bridge in either direction: there's a reason why the Northern Beaches is called 'The Insular Peninsula'!
Checked out Wanda Beach and wow, it was so bloody crowded on all the good breaks! Given that the majority of the group were beginners, we decided to go a little up the beach to where a break was closing out and there was lots of whitewater.
Took the video camera out, but in the blazing sun it quickly fogged up. Caught a couple of nice rides and then decided to chill. Left the board on the beach and swam about taking photos of the group. Yes, I've decided to dial back my single minded ambition to catch as many waves as I can.
Nice perspective swimming around and not having to worry about the next big wave and what I was going to do with the board. Got chatting to a nice local bloke about his McTavish Carver. It all seemed so social and relaxed.
Afterward, the meetup group went to the Hazelhurst Gallery for some breakfast and then some kulcha (culture) at the Wax On surf exhibition. Highly recommend the restaurant and the exhibition which runs until the 31 January 2010.
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