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So, why is surfing so addictive?
"When I dream of surfing now, I dream of Ollie's. I didn't just catch one or two perfect rides, I caught dozens and dozens. I'd paddle one-two-three and slide onto the soft, perfectly pitched slope, hopping to my feet to watch the pale blue wall rise up and extend into forever, my fingers raking the warm water at my side, my grin stretching my sunburnt cheeks. And I would fly, fly, fly, riding the wave until I began to wonder if in fact it had no end. When the ride faded, I aimed my body up and out, and as the lip crumbled into foam at my heels I would be prone, paddling with ease for the outside." 'Chasing Waves: A Surfer's Tale of Obsessive Wandering' by Amy Waeschle's
Some people say it takes only one or two sessions to get hooked. My addiction started on 19 November 2003 and because I firmly believe that a life worth living is worth recording (unless you're way, way, way too busy), that's what I've done here...in text, photos, and video. Welcome to my surf diary!The Sydney Surf Group
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun. Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Start: 7:30 AMTime: 1 hrSurf: 5 timesConditions: Ankle to knee high, smooth, high tide. Offshore wind.
Why would you bother going for a surf when there wasn't any? Because, as a tourist from South Africa said to me this morning, this place is paradise! Looking at all of the people from the surf group out in the water; the bright blue sky above; and the cool, crystal clear water lapping at our feet, I could not have agreed more.
Paddled out on the longboard with not a care in the world. Caught some OK little waves, but soon gave the board over to other members to have a go while I surfed their shortboards. Different perspective for both of us. Laughed and joked a lot. Every time Freddy got up on my board, all I could hear was the 'Hawaii Five-O' theme song. He looked so cool!
Afterward, we did the usual breakfast meetup...this time up at a North Steyne cafe. I got there late and was bowled over by the long, long table we occupied. Did we really have 15 surfers out this morning...and no surf? Stoked!
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