Why this?

Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.

Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.

I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.

This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Session Number: 768

Start: 9:00 AM
Time: 1 hr 45 mins
Surf: 16 times
Conditions: Knee to chest high, smooth, well formed, bit full, mid-low tide. Offshore wind.

Drove past South Steyne at 8:20 AM and I couldn’t believe my eyes – the waves were curling beautifully to the left and right. Only drawback was the big crowd of longboards and surf skis. Checked Freshwater and the wind was chopping it all up.

Back to South Steyne and competitive conditions tend to bring out the ‘wave hog’ in me. Today was no exception. I just couldn’t get enough. Waves weren’t perfect and I wasn’t in fine form, but I had a lot of fun all the same.

I experimented with the camera by turning it around, but the results weren’t great because you can’t see the nose – there’s no perspective.

As per usual, the camera got lots of looks, stares and sniggers. A few even let their curiosity get the better of them and paddled over to ask questions.

For the benefit of the friendly, English guy (Gareth), who dropped in on me (no hard feelings), the footage looks awesome and can be found quickly on the timeline at 3’ 33”. Leave a comment if you like.

Another notable section is when I attempt to duck dive the longboard at 3’ 25”. I recon it’s a good effort.

video
 
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