Time: 1 hr 45 mins
Surf: 16 times
Conditions: Knee to chest high, smooth, well formed, bit full, mid-low tide. Offshore wind.
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!