Time: 1 hr 40 mins
Surf: 11 times
Conditions: Chest to head high, bit bumpy, rippy, low tide. Light onshore wind.
Just had to go back to Tea Tree Bay and was initially disappointed to find the place jam-packed with shorties. Doesn't anyone work around here!
Luckily, most everyone was still following the herd to the takeoff point next to the rocks even though 70% of the time they couldn't get a clear run through. Again I sat out a bit and picked up another batch of the longest rides ever - my shoulders, neck and arms are now so sore.
Sat next to a bloke who I'd chatted to on the path and we both turned around to see a huge wave coming in. He exclaimed loudly that it was the wave of the day and my chest puffed up and I knew that one way or another, it would be mine. Got up, with the heavy camera dangling from between my teeth on one of my biggest every drops, fully aware that I'd have to make my way around about 20 surfers at the bottom...and not kill anybody. Tall order!
I made it and was beaming as I made the wall...then I spotted a guy right in front and I was stuffed. The wall was too high and there was no way to get around him, so I had to bail. Damn! Got massively worked over by the three waves behind and ended up close to shore. That's what you get for pride.
Oh, the footage for this session is totally random because I took out the heavy, tough, Olympus MU 8000. Great camera until it smacks you in the head. Kept forgetting to turn it on, or remove my hand from in front of the lens. Just wanted to see the world through a flat lens. I think the GoPro camera is a much better, safer surf option. Back I go.
Put the camera back in my pocket halfway through the session and really got stuck into some seriously good waves. It was just so amazing to ride for so long and be able to smack and work the wall and lip over an over again. You've got to get out here when it's working!
Last ride had me smiling all the way back along the stony, pain in your feet, path. I particularly remember mid-way through the ride when it walled up to overhead and a guy was paddling out. I'd have normally gone low to avoid him and probably stuffed it up, but this time I stayed high on the lip and even though the drop was huge, I passed the guy and then rocketed down the face and up again...over and over. Who'd have thought doing something just a little different could make you feel so good.
Standard of surfers here at Noosa is still incredibly high. I heard a few of the best lonboarders in the world are still working First Point. Sat on the rocks watching them as the sun went down tonight and they blew my mind. I must seem pedestrian by comparison, but hey, I'm stoked most of the time.
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