Time: 1 hr
Surf: 7 times
Conditions: Shoulder to head high, bumpy, extremely long rights, low tide. Building onshore wind.
Long walk. Long paddle out. Big sets. Not too crowded compared to First Point.
Most surfers played the game of trying to get to the inside by sitting as close to the rocks as possible. Lots of near misses. Not really worth the hassle since most of the rides closed out and then reformed a bit further along the line. I took the relaxed option and sat at the reform and avoided the competition and steep takeoff.
Vibe was much more friendly here at the stunning, Tea Tree Bay.
First half of the session was mostly populated with older longboarders, then a speedboat dropped two shorties off and more scrambled down the rocks - word had got out and the balance changed.
Nearly every time I looked down the line; I was blocked by a really good surfer. Great to watch, but it soon grew tiresome.
I was more relaxed with the camera today and so was able to fully appreciate the August board. It’s a great ride - so fast and maneuverable. Up on the nose once and it was perfect. Got a pleasant surprise when I made a back foot turn and the tail skidded out. Nice and loose compared to Redline.
On the walk back I noted how the swell size really dropped off, but the crowd size increased. Even though my legs were red-raw from boardshort chaffing, I was glad there’s no car access to Tea Tree Bay.
The camera footage might be a bit shaky and all over the place at times, but I really like it because it’s responsive and loose. Being able to respond to the wave and other surfers by moving the camera is really liberating. I might even do it more back in Sydney. No, I can’t quite bring myself to don the camera mounted helmet.
The great music to this video can be got here. As per usual, it is free and legal.
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