Session Number: 784

Start: 6:30 AM
Time: 1 hr
Surf: 6 times
Conditions: Shoulder high, closeouts, very full and rippy, tide almost high, protected from the onshore wind.

Gee, did I pick the wrong board for the session!

Met up with Peter and a new surf buddy, Paul, for a session at Queenie. Checking out all the beaches as far north as Longreef, but the NE swell and onshore wind meant it was either messy or flat.

The very short period waves had some size, but I found them nearly impossible to get on. Lucky-skilled-wise-sage Peter sat way out the back on his 9’ 1” McTavish Fireball and picked up some great rides whilst my frustration developed into a headache.

Enough! I decided to move south on my own to where the rip wasn’t as strong and I could see lots of shortboarders catching waves. Got on some, but the mood didn’t change. Something was wrong.

Honestly…before the session, I remember looking out at the waves and thinking they looked dumpy, gnarly and dangerous. I didn’t voice my feelings because who wants to look weak. Before the vote, I said we should go south to where the waves looked ‘nicer’. Weird stares – they didn’t get my drift. Democracy in action…I lost and we went out to the ‘nasty’ spot.

So all through the session I had a feeling of unease because my courage had left me. Inevitably, I tensed up and on one boring little ride, I landed on the tip of my left, big toe. If only I’d been more persuasive.

Pop-up to land on the tip of the left, big toe!

So what the hell can be done when you’re in a group that votes to go some place that you don’t feel safe? Do you stand up and tell the truth or shut up and follow the leader? Yeah, I know today’s session was as weak as piss, but when it doesn’t feel right, shouldn’t you still trust your instincts?