Time: 45 mins
Surf: 6 times
Conditions: Ankle to hip high, low tide, very dumpy. No wind.
I picked up the sun-warped (leave it in the sun and it warps in and out of shape) 8” centre fin for my 6’ 6” Wombat the other day and I have been itching to give it a go with the camera attached. How would the footage look up close and personal? Also, I’ve developed a really bad habit of tensing my toes up as I take off. Consequently, I sometimes land on the tip of my left big toe. It makes you want to scream! Could I catch myself on video so that I could relive the agony over and over again?
Low tide, dumpy conditions are tricky at the best of times. So going out on a board I hardly ever surf, with a delicate camera attached, was asking for a vicious smack in the head.
As if to tempt me out, a shortie was ripping it up on an awesome little wave as I paddled out. But when I got out the back, a longboarder told me it was dumping 99% of the time.
So, nicely shaped, rounded waves kept coming in, but they mostly heaved up and dumped their load on the sandbank a few metres away from where I sat.
I felt really shaky and unsure on the Wombat, but at least I got up with no problems and I never did land on the big toe.
Took some footage of a guy named ‘Crannie’ walking to the nose, which was inspiring and something that I still can’t do.
Spoke to an old guy of about 60 who’s learning to surf on a foamy. Unfortunately, he only surfs once a week because he has to travel 200 Km to the water. Now that’s dedication, but based on my experience, he needs to bump it up to at least three sessions a week. He knows, but just wants to get in the water and enjoy. Cool.
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