Why this?

Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.

Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.

I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.

This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Session Number: 646

Start: 8:05 AM
: 45 mins

: 12 times

: Hip high with the very occasional shoulder high, late takeoff, wave. Bit rippy and reflected. High tide. Onshore wind

Damn, you got me! Nope, I didn't keep a record of this session. Send me an email bragging that you found out :)
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