Time: 1 hr
Surf: 1 times
Surf was on the big and scary side.
Went out at North Steyne at 6:30 and as usual, within 10 minutes the place was crawling with shortboards.
I thought I saw Darcy, but this guy wasn't "happy" Darcy, he was mean and serious Darcy.
We both paddled for a wave, we both got picked up, but he yelled for it and had right of way, so I backed off. No "hello" or anything. Maybe it wasn't Darcy.
I only caught one wave - well, the other one I caught didn't go anywhere because I almost broke my wrist trying to stand up - and was blown away at how fast and maneuverable the board is.
Truly, I was awestruck at the rocket under me. Now that's what I call fun!
I got hit by a 'newbie' longboarder that got dumped in front of me and let go of his board. His fins hit me in the back. I checked my board straight away and there was no dings, but I've got a couple of nice bruises. I didn't berate him because these things happen...and not that long ago for me :)
What the Sea Gives Me - Last night I saw *What the Sea Gives Me* at Green Flash Brewery with a few friends. What the sea gives me is stoke, and hope, and fear, and joy - and so muc...
1 week ago