Why this?

Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.

Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.

I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.

This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!

Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Session Number: 115

Time: 1 hr
Surf: 1 times

Surf was on the big and scary side.

Went out at North Steyne at 6:30 and as usual, within 10 minutes the place was crawling with shortboards.

I thought I saw Darcy, but this guy wasn't "happy" Darcy, he was mean and serious Darcy.

We both paddled for a wave, we both got picked up, but he yelled for it and had right of way, so I backed off. No "hello" or anything. Maybe it wasn't Darcy.

I only caught one wave - well, the other one I caught didn't go anywhere because I almost broke my wrist trying to stand up - and was blown away at how fast and maneuverable the board is.

Truly, I was awestruck at the rocket under me. Now that's what I call fun!

I got hit by a 'newbie' longboarder that got dumped in front of me and let go of his board. His fins hit me in the back. I checked my board straight away and there was no dings, but I've got a couple of nice bruises. I didn't berate him because these things happen...and not that long ago for me :)
 
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