They Don't All Hate Us

I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.

No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!

Why this?


Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.

Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.

I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.

This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!

The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!

Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.

Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.

Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists',
Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!

If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.

Events - The Sydney Surf Group

The Sydney Surf Group RSVPs

Thursday, February 12, 2004

Session Number: 19

Time: 1 hr
Surf: 0 times

Big surf! With Malcolm.

Didn't get up...walked down to the beach and chatted happily along the way. Surf looked good from the shore, but once we went out I realised it was huge - never seem to get the scale right until I'm on my stomach looking up at some monster swell building up behind me.

I sat out the back for a while because I was shit scared of being dumped. Malcolm got up and was off on one of many rides.

Eventually, I made it in through the break, but found the conditions closer to shore just as bad.

I spent the next hour being mostly pounded by the surf as I pushed to go out a bit and catch small waves.

Malcolm had to help, but it just made me nervous and lowered my self esteem (my issue, not his).
 
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