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They Don't All Hate Us
I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.
No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!
Why this?
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!
The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.
Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists', Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!
If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.
Time: 1 hr Surf: 0 Surfed with Peter M and Peter A at Manly.
Shit some of the waves were huge! It looked dangerous standing on the beach and it was worse out in the water. Shallow right out to a 100 m and then a drop off - the break point.
I paddled for my first wave and watched as my board nose dived. All I could think was not to break my neck on the bottom. I got tumbled for a while and the board just missed me. After that I was frightened and only attempted one other wave - ended the same way.
I don't think Peter A was very impressed and I sensed he wanted to keep his distance.
Peter M got up a few times.
I had a headache back at work - pain behind the left eye socket - and I hoped the surf would clear it out. I did my best to look for the positives - the view, the mateship, paddle strength, etc - but on one of the waves I felt like a heap of sea water got rammed up my nose. And so for that, and other reason, the headache returned.
