Session Number: 12

Time: 1 hr
Surf: 4

Great surf!!!

With Peter. Hey, the swell wasn't that bad at all. As I pulled the board out of the garage Rick from downstairs called out, "there's no surf", but there was and I got up on four really good ones. Peter was kind enough to watch and cheer me on.

We surfed at Middle Steyne right outside the life saving club. Tash drove past as we were parking and I kept an eye out for her on the beach, but she was most likely at home watching TV.

We paddled around for a while and Peter caught a few while I seemed to be holding back. Nerves seem to have got the better of me lately. Finally, I watched another guy on a longboard catch wave after wave and I moved over to his spot. Nothing happened for a while and then I caught a good wave, waited until it picked up speed, grabbed the rails and stood up. The ride didn't seem to last long, but I was in control and moved my feet around. Peter had caught the wave in front and was cheering and calling out encouraging words. He was most likely beginning to wonder if I'd ever get up.

From that first ride I felt energized and they kept on coming - not all at once, but I consistently picked my ride.

Towards the end I met Peter out the back and he said he was getting tired. Next thing I knew he was on the beach waiting for me to come in. I caught a good wave, but lost my grip on the rails and fell back down on the board. It was a shame I couldn't have ridden in, but I'd had a great time anyway.