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They Don't All Hate Us
I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.
No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!
Why this?
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!
The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.
Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists', Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!
If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.
Time: 1 hr 30 mins
Surf: 10 times
After the swim at Manly Pool, I walked back home via the beach. I was immediately struck by the small size of the waves and I thought, "I can surf that". So I headed home and got the board.
I was so proud walking down the street with it under my arm. My recently exercised arm bulged under the weight of the board, but after a while the fingers and arm grew sore.
I put my stuff on the beach and headed out with only my boardshorts on. I'd forgotten my leg rope and that made me nervous. Very hot day, but the water was really cold.
There was a lot of surfers in the water and I felt intimidated as I floated out the back. Later, I overheard one of the guys and realised that they were all beginners too.
I must have caught around ten waves and got up every one! I held onto the rail as the board picked up speed and then stood up in one quick, somewhat smooth, movement. I was elated.
I was so happy to have cracked it - I sat on the board out the back; got up over ten times; and felt cool walking down the street with the board under my arm.
