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They Don't All Hate Us
I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.
No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!
Why this?
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!
The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.
Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists', Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!
If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.
Time: 60 mins
Surf: 2 times
Second night of surfing. This time with Malcolm and Peter. The waves were weird and it was explained to me that the on-shore breeze was responsible. Lots of paddling with only a few seconds of standing. I hung out with Peter as we moved down the beach looking for better conditions.
My big achievement for the session was to finally being able to balance my bum on the board while sitting – something every self respecting surfer must know how to do :)
We stayed in the water till around 7:30 PM and then met Malcolm back at his car.
As Peter and I were getting out of the water opposite the Corso, I noticed this good looking, dark haired women frolicking in the shallows with a guy. For some reason I looked back as I got out and caught her eye.
After chatting to Malcolm further up the beach, Peter and I walked back down the beach to the shower...and who was there? The woman I'd spotted earlier and she was in a tiny bikini.
She was more like a teenager than a woman. She flashed me a smile and said "nice board". I asked her if she surfed and she said no. When she left she flashed me a smile and said goodbye. My ego was sky high as Peter gave me a grin. So this is what surfing's all about!
