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They Don't All Hate Us
I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.
No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!
Why this?
Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.
Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.
I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.
This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!
The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!
Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.
Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.
Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists', Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!
If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.
Time: 1 hr
Surf: 5 times
Peter and I had planned to swim tonight at Milsons Point, but the weather turned fine during the day and Peter enthusiastically suggested we surf.
He checked the Coastalwatch Manly surf report which includes live photos of the beach and all looked good.
The waves were just right and I caught the first one. I caught around four more before getting worn out. Then I could only struggle to get onto my knees. At one point I caught a bigish wave and I noticed the front of the board go under the water – I knew that I was about to plant the board and flip – off I went with a tonne of water crashing down on my head. I’d seen it all before.
I caught another wave at a time when I was surrounded by other surfers. I picked up speed and then I noticed another surfer come in from the right – he let out a yell as we both fell off...I feel, he jumped.
I had just broken the second rule of surfing – give way to the person who has already caught the wave and is heading towards you.
He looked so pissed off. I didn’t say sorry because I didn’t yet know what rule I'd broken. I told Peter and he laughed and explained the situation.
We stayed out in the water until the sun set at 8 PM. It was a really good surf. I enjoyed myself and the ribs don’t hurt too much.
