They Don't All Hate Us

I'd like to say a big hello to all the visitors from my wife's blog, They All Hate Us.

No, this blog has nothing much to do with fashion, but if you like the sun, sea and surf, you've come to the right place. Enjoy!

Why this?


Learning to surf as an adult, for most people, is hard. It takes lots of practice and you tend to plateau all the time...and doubt creeps in.

Back when I started to learn to surf in late 2003, I was already keeping a regular diary, so extending it to surf wasn't a big deal.

I can surf now, but while I was in the 'thick of it', learning to surf, going out in crazy conditions, being sworn at, I didn't really think I'd make it.

This is my rather voluminous, in-need-of-editing, account. I've pretty much moved on now to running a surf group which is populated with lots of beginners going through exactly what I did. Life goes on. Take what you will. Don't bloody well give up!

The Sydney Surf Group - 173 members and counting!

Here's a plug...it's pretty obvious that I love to surf, so to share the stoke with like minded people, I started The Sydney Surf Group. If you're in Sydney, join us for a whole heap of fun.

Check it out at www.sydneysurfgroup.com and also become a Facebook fan.

Recently, I commissioned 'surf artists',
Katherine Hall, to design a logo for the group. I'm stoked with what she came up with!

If you'd like to order a tee shirt, click here.

Events - The Sydney Surf Group

The Sydney Surf Group RSVPs

Wednesday, December 3, 2003

Session Number: 3

Time: 30 mins
Surf: 0 times

WARNING: SURF INJURY

Poor bloody Simon!

Peter, Simon, Tony and myself went for a surf at North Steyne tonight. It was Simon’s first time and the waves were mostly average, with the occasional biggie.

We paddled out and around for 30 minutes looking for the ideal spot, but the surf seemed weird, peaking and then running for a short distance before dying out. Peter said it was because there was shallow water running into deeper water then shallow again.

We were having fun chatting, but I could really feel my ribcage hurt as I paddled – arching your back to paddle and putting all your weight on the lower cage/stomach is what does it.

Anyway, the waves started to get bigger and Simon was behind me as I got hit and pushed back.

I felt the board hit something and looked around to see Simon clutching his right upper arm. His wetsuit had been torn open by my fin and he said he had a gash that was showing "white stuff". I was too far away to see any gory detail. Not good at all.

My immediate urge was to keep surfing, but as we all talked it soon became apparent that Simon needed stitches. End of surf.

We struggled to get in and Peter talked to someone at the Manly Surf School about where to take Simon – Warringah Mall Medical Centre. So off we went as an electrical storm approached, shooting massive bolts down to Earth – a portent too late.

Simon, it turned out, was fine. He only needed four stitches and as an added bonus I think we all grew a little closer because a sense of camaraderie was established.
 
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